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Jim
from the USA visited Samara many times and usually stayed
with us, but he decided to enlarge his experience in
Samara.
Jim's story (Summer 2004):
I
wanted to have an apartment so I started by looking
in the local "want-ads" newspaper, Iz-Ruk-Vi-Ryki ("From
Hand to Hand"). There is a scarcity of apartments in
Russia , but there were many listings in the newspaper,
as well as several agencies. Some of them have web sites
and e-mail (in Russian only). There were two types of
apartments - those available for a short stay - a day,
a week, (even an hour) - and those offered for long
term. It is difficult for a foreigner, not speaking
Russian, to call on the phone, so I went to the agency.
At some agencies there may be someone who can speak
some English. For example, I went to agency on Podshipnikavaya
Street (because it was closest to where I was staying).
No one in the office spoke English, and they were impatient
with my Russian. One of them made a phone call, and
half a minute later Vladimir appeared who announced
he would translate for me. He stood by and his English
was better than many Americans' English, so it was easy
from then on. I told them I only needed a place for
three weeks. They made many phone calls and I liked
the location of one (5 blocks from the beach, on the
busy main street with banks, buses pretty girls.), so
they called there, confirmed the price as 10,000 Rubles
for the month and set up an appointment for 6 that evening.
I met Valera and his wife, who teaches English, however
there was a communication problem at the appointment.
Valera demanded $500 for a short stay. I thought they
were trying to cheat me, but I didn't have anything
better at that moment so I offered $300 and we settled
on $400. I liked that he would provide telephone (wait
till the Russians find out some Americans have no respect
for other peoples' telephones) and internet service.
However there was an old rug on the bed (they said it
was a blanket) and used rugs on the chairs, too. They
said many Russians use rugs on the bed. I did pay a
deposit. Later on, I started to rethink the deal (stupid
me, I always do something impulsively, then regret it
later). Also, I was thinking, we told him I only wanted
to stay for one month, when we had called from the agency.
When I met Valera, though, he said since I only wanted
to stay one month, the price would be higher (15,000
instead of 10,000 rubles). This didn't make any sense
to me. Later on, I figured out that his mother or aunt
or someone else must have answered the phone when the
agency had called and failed to relay the information
to him, creating a misunderstanding. When I returned
the next day to pay the rest of the rent, I noticed
the hot water was not working. Valera banged on the
pipes for an hour and finally got it working. The stores
are being refurbished on the first floor and the water
throughout the entire building is not working properly,
and the pipes in Valera's apartment are old iron and
they are rusted inside. He said they were replacing
the pipes with copper, and indeed the pipes in the kitchen
had already been done. Anyway, I complained about the
water and the bed-rugs and Valera said he would give
me my money back and his wife asked me if that is what
I wished. I said yes. I was taken aback by their honesty.
I had not trusted them and was totally surprised (mainly
at my own lack of trust). I made an offer to stay at
$350 but Valera (pride was in the mix now) refused.
The next day, Mikhail called another agency, "Brosnecka,"
and we went through more listings. There was a suitable
apartment on Lenin Street, so Sergei gave a me a ride
in his car to have a look. It was typical (small). Bathroom,
Kitchen and a Living Room where the couch folds down
and the space becomes a Bedroom. Always remember to
take off your shoes in the apartment, even if it looks
like the dust hasn't been disturbed since Jimmy Carter
was President. I walked into the kitchen without shoes,
earning a reprimand from the owner, and she muttered
something about "Americans" when I didn't accept the
apartment. I didn't like it because it seemed hot, and
for some reason, I disliked it being on the first floor
(there are industrial-strength burglar bars on the windows,
so break-ins are not a worry). Sergei and I pored over
some more listings. Finally I noticed an expensive one-bedroom
flat next to the beach, but it was a big apartment,
and on the tenth floor. I met Marina, the owner, and
the inside was very clean and furnished with a modern
living room suite. From the terrace, the Volga stretched
for miles and miles. The bathroom and kitchen were also
well-furnished and clean. This was $200 a week (6000
rubles) slightly more than Valera's, but so much nicer,
and the location was perfect. I couldn't get the money
into Marina's hands soon enough. There was some problem
and I thought I understand her Russian (psychologists
have a nice way of speaking clearly and slowly) but
I called Mikhail on the cell anyway. He said what I
thought - that one week was okay, but she had promised
it would be available the second week to someone, else,
but she wasn't sure if the other party was coming or
not. Anyway, I wanted it, because I never had a beachfront
apartment before and I did get the money into her hands
- $200 for one week, with a possible second week. Overall,
renting an apartment for a short term in Russia is extremely
convenient for the traveler. You not only get free phone
service (local calls only), but there can be plates,
dishes, silverware, pots and pans in the kitchen, free
linen, blankets an pillows, television, perhaps even
a modern sound system. Usually, there is a small washer.
You only have to buy your own food, drink and laundry
detergent, shampoo, soap, etc. What more can you want?
I am worried that this sweetheart arrangement will fall
apart when boatloads of tourists start arriving. Imagine
what will happen when someone rents an apartment and
the owner returns to receive a $1000 telephone bill
(I had a immigrant tenant in the US who ran up a $5000
phone bill somewhere else - I had already put a block
on long-distance calls) After a few reports of telephone
abuse, that will be the end of the free phone service.
No security deposit. Can you imagine any US landlord
allowing anyone (let alone a foreigner, whom you can
never contact nor prosecute) into his housing unit without
at least a full month's deposit? Alas, this wonderful
trust may dissolve, after a few owners arrive to find
their apartments trashed by groups of weekend party
people. No security deposit- No respect. But for now,
it's a different world and a different culture, and
this is one of the more wonderful aspects of that difference,
so enjoy it and take advantage of it. Overall, the short-term
apartment rental, in so many respects, is much nicer
than the sterile hotel stay. Lessons learned - Don't
immediately accept what's first offered. In a big city,
you can usually find exactly what you're looking for,
and Samara is a big city, and you will regret compromising
with yourself. |